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you can easily check the inertia switch by using the voltage drop test from one wire to the other with the engine running. do the same with the red wire to the idle air control valve. this checks the ignition switch output usually. slowly rotate the ignition key from off slowly thru Run. set it up so you can see it from the drivers seat. Stick a test light probe into the coil positive connection. Perform a voltage drop test also to check the electrical connections. within 15 or 30 minutes of driving it will clog all the openings and shut off fuel. the clogged fuel filters when the engine is off will drop some sediment off the element. please be sure to reinstall the safety clips on both ends of the filter connections. So if you want to do that, suggest to have somebody w/experience show you how in person.Change the fuel filter. Otherwise you could get a short circuit and a car fire. They have to be placed so they don’t get pinched, or in the way of something that’s moving (like a fan), etc.
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Running wires around the truck that aren’t designed to be there requires some common sense.
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Harbor Freight often offers coupons for free hand held volt meters (search their website on DVM) w/any purchase, or they can be purchased for less than $20. Monitoring other voltages would require a pair of wires be connected at the monitoring point, and run into the passenger compartment, where you’d have a hand held volt meter on the other seat, taped to the dashboard, etc. That might be a place to start if you do it yourself. There are inexpensive gadgets you can plug into the cigarette lighter to monitor the battery voltage. Is it something that I could buy and do myself My diagnostic knowledge is minimal, but I can replace parts and I can learn. Would that matter? Any insight and help would be greatly appreciated. My battery is a 24 (the previous owner had this in the truck, so I assumed it was correct and bought a new one of that size), but the true battery size is 65, I’ve since learned. When it stalls, I put it in park after coasting off the road and stop, turn the key, and it fires up without issue. A lot of the stalling symptoms seem to point towards the ignition switch, but I can’t seem to rule out the PCM, distributor, or pip sensor because symptoms match those to varying degrees.
![ford f150 stalls while driving ford f150 stalls while driving](http://www.conceptcarz.com/images/Ford/Ford_F150_manu-07_01-1024.jpg)
New map sensor, tps, EGR, IAC valve, plugs and wires, pcv valve, o2 sensor, ignition coil, fuel pumps, fuel and air filters, tfi module (mechanic replaced the tfi, I did the others over the past year). It’s unpredictable and there isn’t a pattern to it happening. Recently, it’s been stalling intermittently on the road. I’ve never worked on a vehicle but wanted to learn and wanted an older truck. I changed a lot of the parts (Carfax said it sat for 10 years). Hi, this is my first post and I wish I discovered this place last year when I got this truck.
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